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I thought I’d take a different approach with my RG Red Frame kit and try to document it more fully here.

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This was a wonderful birthday present from my wife! 
Here’s a picture of my set up and tools. A168A416-AF0E-499C-AD35-019BD1215887.thumb.jpeg.4e2047686434521f52132c55ea8dce88.jpeg

To recap some of what I’ve done already I’ve complete the lower half of the unit so far. 
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The great thing with these RG kits are the inner frame. At first glance I assumed more of the frame would be exposed on this particular unit, but I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the amount of armor on the limbs. Still while I don’t enjoy exposing the frame I like to at least prep the parts as best as I could. CB492175-2C1E-40EA-84C2-A0D6433E095F.thumb.jpeg.0c4bdc27e11b4e3da813e935b9879174.jpeg

I’ve adopted the technique of cleaning up these nub marks with an Xacto knife, but not the way most might think. 
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I’ll angle the blade and basically scrap away from the cutting end. 748B6DF4-21B4-4461-85A1-AB5BEEDB547B.thumb.jpeg.b72a6f4b6ceafca4bbc607050f566593.jpeg

while it doesn’t always remove the mark I find it has a pretty good ratio of success. Besides my goal is more or less to make the surface even since I’ll end up painting everything anyways. 
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To really get it clean I’ll use some sand paper, or in this case a nail file. Typically I use two different grits, while the nail file is finer than some grades it still eats up the surface some. 98F1A9E2-FB9F-4DB7-8C8A-85EF92091BF5.thumb.jpeg.ee055b6063a548dd5fadb40927a2997f.jpeg

What I’ll do after the tougher stuff is follow up with a piece of wet sand paper (I feel like this is 1000 grit, but I forgot I’ve had it for so long). Wet sand paper is great because you can use it dry like this, and later (typically between paint coats) you can use it wet with water to make an even finer finish. Anyone whose put an RG together can attest to the frame plastic being a softer material than the rest of the pieces but the same technique works for the regular parts as well

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After....

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It’s worth noting that not every time I will sand a piece, sometimes it’ll clean up just fine with the blade. 
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There’s not a whole lot of scribing and what not that I can do with this kit but I suspect I can make it shine once I get to painting it! Right now the plan is to assemble the kit together vanilla then take it apart for painting. 
Stay tuned for more developments as they come!

Edited by Roromi
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  • 2 weeks later...

So I’ve made some progress since last time!

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I should point out a comment I made earlier about sanding. I do in fact sand each piece, I just don’t use rough grit on every piece. I use my (dry) wet sand paper on every piece. I’ll do my best to get the reflective sheen off each piece. There are several reason for this, all relating to painting. Any plastic that comes from a mold will typically have a type of mold release on them. This residue doesn’t play nicely with paint. Is it impossible to paint by not sanding? No. Is it better for paint to sand? Yes. It may be a minute difference but it will change the texture some, which is a good thing in my opinion. 

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For the record this waist… Oye was it bad getting connected. I had heard stories and I’m terrified of it coming apart again. I think when I finish it all up I’m gonna just super glue it together. 

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I’d say I got everything together that I want together. Where’s the head? Still on the runner I’m not going to put it together because heads are so fragile and I’m scared I’d legitimately break something. Same story with the sword, it’s so unique I don’t want to flub it up. At this point I’m really going to look it over and see if I can even scribe anywhere. I’m tempted to maybe try some small hole scribes maybe. The other thing I’ll likely do is scribe lines to even seam lines out, or deepen existing lines or features. This kit is so layered and detail it’s impressive the scale of depth something so small can have. There isn’t a flat area I could readily edit like I would say the Zeta. Stay tuned as I inch my way towards the exciting parts of painting. 

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Ok so here’s a small update. I looked everything over and looked to see if there was anything worth scribing. Before I screw things up I practiced doing the “light switch” scribe in a piece of of the runner.

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As you may or may not be able to tell I wasn’t doing a good job, so I decided not to try it on this kit. I did decide to scribe normally by the ankle to try and even out an existing piece separation line. I also added some detail on the feet but that was all I opted to do. This kit was just too busy to really do much else. 

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With all the scribing done it was time to take it all apart! Now I say this as much to myself as I do to anyone kind enough to read this: patience it a virtue. I almost snapped the forearm armor trying to get it back off. You might be able to see the stress mark on the part. 

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With that drama out of the way I finished taking the last parts off the runners, and sanded them down. I then marked and separated everything by the colors I want to do. 

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Now the deceiving thing about this is that some colors are needed for painting in others. For example I want to candy coat a lot of the red which can require between 3-4 layers of paint. By my rough estimate this project may end up taking between 9-12 different layers of paint in total. Of course we’ll see if expectations meet reality. Next step is to clip everything up, then add primer! Stay tuned!  

Edited by Roromi
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May as well update as I wait for turkey! Clipping the parts on can be a bit tedious and even challenging. I made my clips by hot gluing skewers to electric clips. I have a few skewers just bare so I can use the pointy ends too. 

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Some parts I had to get creative with like this shoulder armor, there wasn’t an area I could clip or poke through so instead of using hot glue I decided to try making this ball of play do from my kids to try and fit the part. It’s a little loose but seems to be doing the job for the most part. 

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Now that everything is clipped on (well half of everything really I don’t have enough clips for the whole kit but I’m dividing it by colors being painted), it is now time to prime the parts!

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Priming is more like spray painting (I forgot to picture the can but it is like spray paint).  So I just make sure I stay a few inches away, and spray at different angles. I don’t have to hit everything perfectly. Primer basically acts like a glue for paint, paired with the sanding it’ll help the paint stick firmly on the surface. A misconception is that “oh paint will stick on whatever” and for the most part it’s true but it’s the end texture that you’re trying to overcome with the sanding and primer. I’ve had bad experiences spray painting helmets and having the paint act up incorrectly by neglecting to do those steps.

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So there are three parts I’m trying to paint here. One is the frame itself, the next is one shade of red (metallic), and the last part are parts I actually want black. 

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Now you may find yourself asking “why are you painting it all black?”  I must admit this is something new I’m trying but the idea is that (for some reason) metallic paints show up better with a glossy black undercoat. Unfortunately all I have is semi-glass and matte black but I’m giving the semi-gloss a try. If nothing else it should help with the final colors in some way. One thing I always try to do when paining a color is try to get all sides of a piece, even the underside that typically won’t be seen. The reason for this is because there are often crevices or angles that you may not consider as being visible or important but low and behold it will be evident if you don’t paint it! I may not do the best coat for undersides but I’ll still hit the hose spots up. Next coat will be for metallic colors for the red and inner frame. 

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